New York: Fashion house Calvin Klein introduces Veronica Leoni as the new creative director, showcasing her debut collection in a minimalist setting that pays homage to the brand’s heritage while embracing contemporary design and sensuality in tailoring.
The historic fashion house Calvin Klein has recently witnessed a significant turning point with the appointment of Veronica Leoni as creative director of Calvin Klein Collection. Leoni made her debut at the label’s storied headquarters, located at 205 West 39th Street in New York, where the minimalist aesthetic was unmistakably present. The venue, stripped back to white, served as a blank canvas that allowed for a more profound focus on the attendees and, crucially, the clothing itself.
The fashion show, which marked Calvin Klein’s first since 2018, featured notable figures such as Christy Turlington and Kate Moss, both of whom have been iconic faces for the brand’s fragrances. Additionally, the presence of Klein himself and his former wife, Kelly Rector, lent a nostalgic touch to the event, underlining the brand’s rich heritage.
Calvin Klein has long been synonymous with minimalism—an approach deeply embedded within the brand since its inception. This tradition and its associated cultural weight posed a challenge for Leoni, considering the legacy she was stepping into. Speaking about her vision, Leoni referenced an overarching theme of “reducing canvas to the minimum,” signalling a thoughtful approach to tailoring that reflects her extensive experience at prestigious brands including Jil Sander and Céline. “Emptying the weight” of Calvin Klein’s history was a key part of her strategy to navigate the label’s storied past without losing its essence.
The collection presented was defined by its refined but complex cuts. Leoni aimed to reinvent tailoring by stripping back certain layers, thus introducing a new sensuality to familiar silhouettes. The garments skimming the body rather than clinging to it brought a fresh fluidity to pieces that harked back to the era when Calvin Klein first garnered attention in the late 70s and early 80s.
Leoni delved into the archives, drawing inspiration not only from the clothing but also from the imagery that shaped the brand’s identity, including unpublished photographs from the CK One advertising campaign. This exploration informed her design ethos, which she articulated by evoking various American archetypes—images of sexy workers, taxi drivers, and even characters like Jessica Rabbit and Clark Kent.
Throughout her collection, Leoni infused a sense of anticipated sensuality, employing tactile fabrics that invited touch, creating a subtle interplay of concealment and revelation. Rather than revealing skin in a direct manner—especially suitable for a winter collection—she crafted garments that suggested layers to be peeled away, with flying panels and buttons designed to intrigue and entice the viewer.
Veronica Leoni’s debut collection at Calvin Klein reflects a diligent balance of respect for the brand’s past and a modern interpretation that resonates with the contemporary fashion landscape. By focusing on timeless tailoring and rich historical influences within modern collections, Calvin Klein continues to embody a legacy of fashion that remains relevant in a fast-paced industry.
Source: Noah Wire Services
