Designer Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen’s latest collection takes inspiration from nature, showcasing unique pieces that reflect a sensuous, intimate approach to fashion with historical influences and a strong emphasis on craftsmanship.
Designer Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen showcased her fall 2025 ready-to-wear collection during New York Fashion Week in February, illuminating a poignant exploration of intimacy and craft through fashion. This unique runway show, held at the Performance Space in East Village, was notable for its dim candlelight ambiance, mimicking the conditions under which certain flowers bloom at night. Whalen draws inspiration from the natural world, particularly vespertine flowers that open only in the darkness, creating a sensuous atmosphere that reflects her avant-garde approach to clothing design.
Whalen’s collection features an eclectic mix of vintage and reclaimed materials, including tea-stained linens, lace, and quilted wool. Models presented garments with distinct historical influences, such as hoop skirts that echo 16th-century court fashion and striking armor constructed from vintage serving plates. Whalen described her intention to present armor not as pristine museum pieces but as objects that suggest tales of returning from war, instilling them with remnants of history.
Attendees observed an unexpected comfort in the clothing – a reflection of Whalen’s desire to transport audiences from the winter chill of a February afternoon in New York City. She articulated the struggle against the frantic pace of city life, stating, “We were working against the tide, prioritizing things like ritual and intentionality in a city that is super fast in a time that wants to gobble everything up and consolidate.” Her perspective hints at a broader conversation about the nature of contemporary fashion within the bustling environment of New York City.
Whalen’s garments exhibit her signature spiral motif, a design choice that originated from her experiences in life drawing classes while pursuing her master’s degree. Whalen explained, “Every nipple, belly button, knee, hip, shoulder, I would make a little spiral with my hand.” This motif eventually manifested in her work, leaving a mark of organic warmth amid her sculptural designs.
In discussing her artistic vision, Whalen emphasized the emotional communicative potential of clothing, viewing fashion as “a form of sculpture in relation to the body.” Her academic career in fashion design has seen her pass through institutions such as the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), Parsons, and Central Saint Martins, before immersing herself in collaborations with brands that blurred the lines between art and fashion.
Whalen also highlighted the cultural significance of craft in her designs, reflecting on her formative experiences with quilting. “I learned to sew from an amazing quilter named Laura in Arlington, Massachusetts,” stated Whalen. She expressed her desire to elevate sewing—and the broader historical context of women’s work—by treating it with the respect it deserves as an art form.
As society has evolved, so has the shape and intent behind clothing, according to Whalen. She noted the historical shifts from Industrial Revolution patterns to the rise of sportswear in the 1930s, signaling changes in women’s mobility, both socially and physically. In light of this, her collection aims to provoke thought about current standards of living and gender perceptions through a more expansive lens of domesticity.
Whalen’s upbringing played a significant role in shaping her artistic sensibilities. With a background steeped in earth-centered spirituality and communal celebrations, she has embraced a process-oriented approach to design, encouraging a playful interaction with materials and techniques.
Her commitment to various crafting methods—ranging from candle-making to carpentry—allows her to continuously question and expand the boundaries of her art. “That’s why I’m able to continue diving into wax and woodworking and ceramics and metalsmithing,” she stated. “I have no business doing these things. But why not just try? I love being in the space of continuing to question everything.”
Through her latest collection, Whalen has made a bold statement within the fashion landscape, inviting viewers into a world that cherishes craftsmanship, intimacy, and the multifaceted nature of contemporary living.
Source: Noah Wire Services
