Oakland’s vintage shops, driven by passionate entrepreneurs, reflect a growing demand for sustainable fashion while navigating the evolving definitions of vintage.
Oakland’s vibrant vintage shop scene showcases a unique blend of personal passion and a growing market demand. Owners of these boutiques often share similar stories of discovery and evolution, having transitioned from casual collectors to shopkeepers. Karen Fort, the owner of Mercy Vintage in Rockridge, reflects on her own journey, stating, “There’s a lot of origin stories that start like mine.” With a background in antiquing influenced by her mother, Fort’s early experiences volunteering at a thrift shop ignited a lasting interest in vintage items. Her path led her to open her first shop in Berkeley before establishing Mercy Vintage 15 years ago.
Similarly, the narrative of starting small and evolving into a full-fledged business is echoed by Jeanette De Mello, co-owner of Serial Material in West Oakland. De Mello recalls her childhood vintage shopping outings with her grandmother, which later inspired her and her business partner, Jackki Gude, to sell clothes on Etsy before launching their brick-and-mortar store. The co-owners of Heads or Tails Collective, Lou Lou Rosenthal and Kylee Kienitz, describe themselves as “collectors slash hoarders” who began their journey by selling personal collections at pop-up events across the Bay Area.
The term “vintage” itself has evolved, with varying definitions that spark debate among shop owners. Fort notes that “technically ‘vintage’ is anything 20 years or older, and ‘antique’ is anything 100 years or older,” but acknowledges the blurring of these lines. Rosenthal highlights the discomfort of labeling recent styles from the early 2000s as vintage, while De Mello emphasizes her perspective that “I don’t consider 2021 vintage.” This evolution reflects a broader trend wherein vintage clothing has gained significant traction, particularly spurred by the COVID-19 pandemic.
According to a 2024 report from ThredUp, the U.S. secondhand apparel market is expected to reach $73 billion by 2028, showcasing the growing public interest in vintage and secondhand clothing. Many shop owners note that this surge has influenced pricing, making some vintage items increasingly expensive. Rosenthal observes that certain pieces now sell for “amounts that feel really unattainable,” while Fort mentions that the cost of vintage clothing has reached an “insane stratosphere of cost” particularly for high-end designer pieces.
Despite pricing concerns, the shop owners remain focused on inclusivity and accessibility. Rosenthal emphasizes that anyone should feel welcome to explore their store and find items that resonate personally with them. “All we can really hope for [is] that anyone can hop in the store and find something they like,” she explains. In a similar vein, Fort acknowledges the excitement of limited inventory, noting that “if you see it, someone else is gonna swoop on it if you don’t move on it.”
Beyond the allure of fashion, many vintage shopkeepers have embraced a commitment to sustainability, recognizing the adverse effects of fast fashion on the environment. Fort points out that consumer awareness around these issues has increased, leading her to develop a new concept: “future-vintage,” representing contemporary items of high quality that are expected to stand the test of time. Selling quality vintage not only preserves historical designs but also contributes to a more sustainable fashion model.
As these shop owners continue their quest to find and curate vintage treasures, they also celebrate the rituals that come with their work. De Mello humorously refers to their frequent visits to flea markets as “church,” highlighting the joy and devotion they feel toward their craft. With their stores—Mercy Vintage, Serial Material, and Heads or Tails Collective—each bringing a distinct flair to the Oakland community, these entrepreneurs are dedicated to sharing their passion for vintage fashion while fostering a culture of sustainability and appreciation for history.
Mercy Vintage operates Monday through Friday from 11 AM to 6 PM at 5505 College Ave., Oakland. Serial Material is open Wednesday from noon to 7 PM, Thursday and Friday from noon to 8 PM, Saturday from 11 AM to 8 PM, and Sunday from 1 PM to 6 PM at 1634 7th St., Oakland. Heads or Tails Collective operates Wednesday through Sunday from noon to 6 PM at 4188 Piedmont Ave., Oakland.
Source: Noah Wire Services
