Cole of California is a name synonymous with innovation and style in swimwear fashion, tracing its origins back to 1917. Originally established as the West Coast Knitting Mills in Vernon, California, the company quickly became a powerhouse in the western United States, producing men’s long knitted underwear and socks. The company’s trajectory changed dramatically when Fred Cole, the son of co-owner Morris Cohn, brought his Hollywood flair to the family business in the 1920s. Leveraging his experience as a silent film actor, Fred Cole envisioned a line of women’s swimwear that was both glamorous and daring. By 1925, the introduction of the “Hollywood Swimsuit” marked a significant departure from the conservative swimwear norms of the era, featuring a sleeveless design, low back, and a short skirt, which captivated the fashion world and set a new standard in swimwear design.

The mid-20th century saw Cole of California solidify its reputation as a trailblazer in the swimwear industry, thanks largely to the creative genius of head designer Margit Felligi. Hired in 1936, Felligi’s background in Hollywood costume design brought a fresh perspective to the brand. She pioneered the use of cotton in swimwear and introduced iconic designs like the “Swoon Suit,” which further elevated the brand’s status. The company continued to push boundaries with innovative designs such as the “Scandal Suit” in 1964, which featured a deep V-neck infilled with mesh and achieved unprecedented commercial success. Throughout the decades, Cole of California not only kept pace with changing fashion trends but often set them, influencing swimwear design on a global scale.

Cole of California’s legacy is further enriched by notable collaborations and endorsements. The brand partnered with legendary swimmer and actress Esther Williams, who became a spokesperson from 1948 to 1952, enhancing its allure and credibility. The brief but impactful collaboration with Christian Dior brought high fashion into the realm of swimwear, a testament to the brand’s prestige and innovative spirit. Even as ownership changed hands multiple times—from Kayser-Roth in 1960 to Authentic Fitness in 1993, and eventually to the InMocean Group—the core values of quality, style, and innovation remained steadfast. Today, Cole of California continues to produce stylish swimwear, maintaining its status as a beloved and enduring brand in the fashion industry.

80s Cole of California Runway

How to tell if Cole of California is vintage from the logo

Cole of California has a rich history of swimwear design and fashion, with its logo evolving significantly over the decades. By examining the logos used on their garments, one can determine the approximate era of a piece, which is particularly useful for vintage collectors. Below is a guide to identifying the era of a Cole of California item based on its logo.

1940s Cole of California logo

• The logo features an elegant cursive “Cole” in brown, with “of California” in a straightforward, blocky font beneath it.
• The word “Original” is written in green, adding a touch of color and emphasizing authenticity.
• This design reflects the post-war era’s appreciation for handcrafted and authentic American products.

1950s to 1970s Cole of California logo

• The logo transitioned to a more bold and modern aesthetic, reflecting the mid-century modern design trends of the time.
• It features a robust, black block text for “Cole” with a distinctive texture.
• “Of California” is written in a smaller, more geometric font beneath “Cole”.

1960s to 1970s Cole of California logo

• During this period, the logo retained a modern and bold style, but with a slight refinement in font and texture.
• “Cole” is presented in a thick, black font with “of California” in a sleek, minimalistic style.
• This era reflects the brand’s adaptation to the evolving fashion landscape and consumer preferences.

1970s to 1980s Cole of California logo

• The logo during this period features a more playful and casual design, with a red color for “Cole”.
• “Of California” is displayed in a smaller, gray font, positioned underneath “Cole”.
• The design reflects the vibrant and bold fashion trends of the 1970s and 1980s.

1980s to now Cole of California logo

• The logo evolves to a more streamlined and modern design, using red for “Cole” with a clean, sans-serif font.
• “Of California” is kept minimalistic, emphasizing simplicity and modernity.
• This era’s logo reflects a shift towards a more contemporary and versatile brand identity.

How to tell if Cole of California is vintage from the tags

The evolution of Cole of California tags reflects the brand’s rich history and changing fashion trends. From the mid-20th century to recent decades, these tags provide insight into the era of each garment. Here’s a guide to identifying vintage Cole of California clothing through its tags.

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1940s vintage Cole of California tags

• Features bold serif lettering for the “Cole” name.
• Often includes “of California” in a smaller font beneath the main logo.
• Tags are typically square with a straightforward design.

1950s vintage Cole of California tags

• Introduces more playful and decorative elements in the tag design.
• Square tags with “Cole” prominently displayed.
• May feature additional branding elements or slogans specific to the era.

1960s vintage Cole of California tags

• Reflects the modernist aesthetic with cleaner lines and fonts.
• Square or rectangular tags, often with simple black and white designs.
• Focus on the “Cole of California” branding with less decorative elements.

1970s vintage Cole of California tags

• Continuation of the clean, modernist aesthetic.
• Square or rectangular tags with bold serif lettering.
• “Cole of California” prominently featured, sometimes with additional styling cues.

1980s vintage Cole of California tags

• Tags become more colorful and varied in design.
• Rectangular tags with “Cole of California” in bold fonts.
• May include additional design elements or patterns reflective of the 80s fashion trends.

1990s vintage Cole of California tags

• Modern and streamlined tag designs.
• Rectangular tags with a focus on simplicity and brand name prominence.
• Use of bold colors and fonts to reflect the 90s fashion aesthetics.