Lilly Daché was a trailblazing figure in the world of fashion, best known for her exceptional millinery skills that captivated the elite of the 20th century. Born in France around 1892, she eventually made her way to the United States, where she transformed her early experiences as a saleslady at Macy’s into a flourishing business empire. Daché’s hats were not merely accessories; they were works of art that adorned the heads of Hollywood stars, socialites, and the upper echelons of society. By the 1930s and 1940s, she had firmly established herself as a leading name in fashion, with her creations commanding prices that far exceeded those of ordinary hats—a testament to her skill and the allure of her designs.

The hallmark of Daché’s career was her innovative approach to millinery, where she constantly pushed the boundaries of style and functionality. She was particularly known for her turbans, brimmed half-hats, and intricate flower-shaped designs that became synonymous with glamour and sophistication. Daché believed that a well-crafted hat could not only enhance a woman’s appearance but also evoke admiration and intrigue. Her ability to blend practicality with high fashion allowed her to thrive even during the Great Depression and World War II, periods when luxury items were often seen as superfluous. Yet, her hats remained in high demand, a symbol of resilience and style in trying times.

As her fame grew, so did her brand. Lilly Daché expanded her offerings beyond hats to include a range of fashion items such as dresses, perfume, and jewelry, establishing branches in Paris and New York. Her collaborations with Hollywood costume designers, like Travis Banton, further solidified her influence in both fashion and entertainment. By the time she retired in 1968, after selling her final hats to actress Loretta Young, Daché had left an indelible mark on the fashion world. Her legacy continues to be celebrated, not only through the vintage pieces that collectors cherish but also through the lasting impact she had on the art of millinery.

1955 Lilly Dache Interview

How to tell if Lilly Daché is vintage from the logo

Lilly Daché, a renowned milliner and fashion designer, had a distinctive branding evolution that reflects the artistic and cultural trends of the mid-20th century. Her logos capture the essence of the eras in which they were used, making them an excellent indicator for dating vintage Lilly Daché items. Below, we’ll break down the different logos used by Lilly Daché during specific time periods, helping you identify if your piece is vintage and from which era it might originate.

1930s to 1940s Lilly Daché logo

• This logo features a stylized, elegant script for “Lilly,” emphasizing the designer’s signature.
• The text “DACHÉ” is in bold, capitalized letters, providing a strong contrast to the script.
• The overall design reflects the Art Deco influence of the time, with clean lines and a focus on modernity.

1930s to 1940s Lilly Dache logo

1940s to 1970s Lilly Daché logo

• In this period, the logo became more geometric and structured, with the brand name enclosed within a rectangular frame.
• The “Lilly” script remained delicate and elegant, while the “DACHÉ” text was placed below in a bold, sans-serif font.
• The logo design mirrors the transition from the Art Deco era to a more mid-century modern aesthetic, focusing on simplicity and form.

1940s to 1970s Lilly Dache logo

How to tell if Lilly Daché is vintage from the tags

Lilly Daché’s iconic fashion legacy is marked by the evolution of her clothing tags over several decades. From the elegant and minimalist designs of the 1940s to the bolder and more detailed tags of the 1970s, each era of her work is reflected in the tags used on her garments. By examining these tags, one can identify the approximate era of a Lilly Daché piece, offering insight into its vintage status.

Struggling to identify vintage tags or labels? Submit a picture on our vintage tag identification page, and we’ll help you out!

1940s vintage Lilly Daché tags

• Tags often feature a simple and elegant font, emphasizing a classic and refined look.
• Some tags include the address “78 EAST 56TH STREET, N.Y.” below the Lilly Daché name, indicative of her New York presence during this time.
• The design is minimalistic, often using a black or dark-colored background with white or light-colored lettering.

1940s Lilly Dache tags

1950s vintage Lilly Daché tags

• Tags begin to incorporate more decorative fonts, with the “Lilly Daché” name often styled in a more cursive, flowing script.
• Locations such as “Paris” and “New York” are prominently featured on the tags, highlighting the brand’s international presence.
• Some tags include additional branding such as “Daché DEBS” or “Dachettes,” indicating different lines under the Lilly Daché brand.

1950s Lilly Dache tags

1960s vintage Lilly Daché tags

• The tags from this era continue to use cursive fonts but with a more modern twist, often in a bolder and more stylized form.
• Multiple city names like “PARIS-NEW YORK-CALIFORNIA” appear on the tags, showcasing the brand’s expansion to the West Coast.
• Tags during this period might also include size indicators, reflecting the growing ready-to-wear market.

1960s Lilly Dache tags

1970s vintage Lilly Daché tags

• Tags from the 1970s maintain the cursive script but in a more relaxed, casual style compared to earlier decades.
• The city names on the tags sometimes expand to include “LOS ANGELES,” indicating further brand growth.
• Some tags feature more vibrant colors and contrasting materials, aligning with the bold fashion trends of the 1970s.

1970s Lilly Dache tags