Founded in 1898 by Thomas Mayes Lewin, TM Lewin has been a cornerstone of British menswear for over a century. Originally starting out in London’s Panton Street before moving to the prestigious Jermyn Street in 1903, TM Lewin quickly gained a reputation for its innovative approach to shirtmaking. At a time when most men’s shirts were still pullovers, Thomas Mayes Lewin introduced the modern button-front shirt, a design that would become a staple in men’s fashion. The brand’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship earned it a loyal following among London’s gentlemen, and by the early 20th century, TM Lewin was a trusted name not just for its shirts, but also for its contributions to military uniform design during World War I.

Throughout the 20th century, TM Lewin expanded its offerings beyond shirts, gradually becoming a full-service menswear brand. The company was known for its meticulous attention to detail, whether in the cut of a suit or the weave of a tie, making it a go-to for professionals and style-conscious men alike. In 1978, the McKenna family acquired the brand, which marked the beginning of a new era of growth. Under their leadership, TM Lewin flourished, opening numerous stores and introducing innovative promotional offers that made high-quality menswear accessible to a wider audience. By the early 2000s, TM Lewin had become a global name, with stores not only in the UK but also in Europe and Australia.

The 21st century brought both triumphs and challenges for TM Lewin. The brand continued to evolve, branching out into suits, outerwear, and accessories, all while maintaining the classic style and quality that had made it famous. However, like many heritage brands, TM Lewin faced difficulties in the rapidly changing retail landscape, culminating in its entry into administration in 2020. Despite the closure of its physical stores, the brand has continued to operate online, staying true to its roots while adapting to modern demands. TM Lewin’s long and storied history is a testament to its resilience and its enduring appeal in the world of men’s fashion.

Masterclass on shirts from TM Lewin

How to tell if TM Lewin is vintage from the logo

TM Lewin has been a staple in British menswear since its founding in 1898, known for its quality shirts and ties. The brand’s logo has undergone subtle changes over the decades, reflecting its evolution while maintaining a classic and sophisticated image. Identifying the era of a TM Lewin product can often be done by closely examining the logo, particularly the typography and additional details such as the establishment date and tagline. Below is a guide to help you determine if your TM Lewin item is vintage based on its logo.

1970s to 2000s TM Lewin logo

• The logo features the name “T.M.Lewin” in a serif font, which is traditional and classic in its presentation.
• The dots between “T”, “M”, and “Lewin” are pronounced, and the overall design is simple yet elegant.
• This logo typically does not include any additional text such as the establishment date or location.

1970s to 2000s TM Lewin logo

2000s to 2010s TM Lewin logo

• This era introduced the “T.M.Lewin” logo with a more modern and refined serif font.
• The logo often includes “EST. 1898” below the brand name, reinforcing the brand’s heritage.
• The design retains the classic dots between the initials but with a slightly more spaced-out appearance.

2000s to 2010s TM Lewin logo

2010s to now TM Lewin logo

• The current logo continues to use the “T.M.Lewin” name in a serif font, but with a more minimalist approach.
• Additional text such as “JERMYN ST. LONDON” is commonly found below the main logo, emphasizing the brand’s prestigious location.
• The dots between the initials are still present, but the font appears slightly bolder and more contemporary compared to previous versions.

2010s to now TM Lewin logo

How to tell if T.M. Lewin is vintage from the tags

T.M. Lewin, renowned for its quality shirtmaking since 1898, has evolved its branding and label designs over the decades. The changes in T.M. Lewin’s tags reflect shifts in fashion, branding, and manufacturing practices. Identifying the era of a T.M. Lewin garment can often be accomplished by examining the tag’s design, materials, and details. Below is a guide to understanding T.M. Lewin’s vintage tags from the 1990s to the 2010s.

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1990s vintage T.M. Lewin tags

• The 1990s tags often feature a clean, simple design with “T.M. Lewin” prominently displayed in bold lettering.
• The brand name is typically followed by “Established 1898” to highlight the brand’s heritage.
• Tags are commonly rectangular with a minimalist approach, focusing on clarity and readability.
• Material is generally a traditional woven fabric, consistent with the brand’s focus on quality.

1990s TM Lewin tags

2000s vintage T.M. Lewin tags

• The tags from the 2000s introduced a more modern aesthetic, while still retaining the classic “T.M. Lewin” logo.
• “Established 1898 – Jermyn Street, London” is often featured on the tags, emphasizing the brand’s London roots.
• The color palette tends to be darker, with black and maroon being common background colors.
• Tags in this era may also include additional branding elements, such as subtle patterns or motifs related to the brand’s identity.

2000s TM Lewin tags

2010s vintage T.M. Lewin tags

• In the 2010s, T.M. Lewin tags often feature a more varied design, with some using a lighter, more contemporary color scheme.
• The logo remains consistent but may be paired with additional text or graphics, such as “Thomas Mayes,” a reference to the brand’s founder.
• Materials used for the tags might include softer, more modern fabrics, aligning with the brand’s evolution into contemporary fashion.
• Tags may also incorporate slogans or additional collection names, reflecting the diversification of the brand’s offerings.

2010s TM Lewin tags