Brass, founded by Minoru Matsuura in Tokyo’s Setagaya district, specializes in handcrafted heritage workwear boots that blend vintage aesthetics with modern durability.

In the Setagaya district of western Tokyo, Brass, the company behind the esteemed Clinch brand, has established itself as a premier manufacturer of heritage workwear boots. Founded in 2007 by Minoru Matsuura, Brass has garnered a reputation for its commitment to premium craftsmanship and high-quality, handcrafted boots inspired by vintage styles.

The Brass retail location, housed in an old but charming building, boasts a wooden front that invites customers in. The back of the establishment features a large, retro mural showcasing company information, contributing to the aesthetic pleasantness of the space filled with meticulously displayed boots and design inspirations.

Minoru Matsuura’s dedication to craftsmanship can be traced back to his upbringing, with a mother who was a tailor and a father who was an architect. This early exposure to precise work and creativity laid the groundwork for his career. Matsuura graduated with a degree in factory engineering and initially pursued a path in industrial manufacturing. However, he later transitioned to shoe repair at age 25, where he honed his skills as a cobbler.

From its inception, Brass initially focused on shoe repair, which Matsuura considered crucial for gaining an understanding of footwear design and construction. Five years after its founding, in 2012, Matsuura launched Clinch as a distinct boot brand under the Brass umbrella. His aim was to create classic workwear footwear that preserved the essence of vintage styles, particularly those dating from the early 20th century to the 1990s. Matsuura sought not just to replicate historical designs but to enhance them through a combination of handwork and machine processes that maintained a balance of craftsmanship and affordability.

Brass operates at a limited scale, producing only between 800 and 1,000 pairs of Clinch boots annually. The production facility is spread over multiple locations; the main facility focuses on finishing boots, while the upper-making area is located upstairs, and a nearby site handles cutting and preparation.

A defining feature of Clinch boots is the meticulous leather selection process, with hides sourced from renowned tanneries in Italy, France, and Japan. Each boot is hand-lasted and, in most cases, welted by hand, incorporating a sole stitching machine for efficiency. Matsuura notes, “And I prefer the welted technique. It comes from my years as a repairman; I know what’s durable, easily reparable, and gives best potential for a really long lifespan.”

The international reach of Clinch has been expanding, with approximately 70% of boots sold outside Japan. The United States accounts for half of these exports, followed by Europe and Asia. Pricing for Clinch boots begins at around €1,250 for low shoes and about €1,800 for boots. The brand engages with enthusiasts through trunk shows held in major cities, such as New York, London, and Taipei, allowing customers to experience the products firsthand and even place Made to Order requests, which come with a 20% premium and a 24-month waiting period.

Among the popular choices are the engineer boots and jodhpur boots, both of which reflect Matsuura’s admiration for vintage aesthetics. His hands-on approach in testing the boots, including wearing them during hikes, ensures that all improvements are grounded in practical usability.

Despite the brand’s upward trajectory, challenges remain, particularly related to workforce availability. Matsuura states, “Skilled workers are difficult to find, and we only hire experienced craftsmen, as training from scratch would be too time-consuming.” Currently, the team consists of 10 to 11 members, with a split focus between production, repair work, and office duties.

To diversify its offerings, Brass has ventured into other product realms, introducing clothing and producing heels and soles under the renowned O’Sullivan name, a classic manufacturer long associated with the production of rubber footwear components. Matsuura has secured the rights to produce O’Sullivan’s products, integrating them into their line of shoes.

Looking to the future, Matsuura aims to establish a shoemaking academy to safeguard traditional craftsmanship, particularly as shoemaking schools become increasingly rare in Japan. “I’m worried about this situation, and what it will mean for the shoemaking knowledge in our country in the future,” Matsuura highlighted. His vision includes starting with basic workshops on repair techniques and evolving into a full-fledged shoemaking school.

Repair work, while once a more equal part of Brass’s operations, has shifted to now comprise about 30% of their activities, with the remaining 70% focused on new boot production. The company has developed a specialization in complex repairs, often reconstructing boots entirely. As an example, Matsuura mentioned, “As an example, we are currently working on a highly intricate restoration, where we’re rebuilding a button boot while retaining only the original shaft due to sizing constraints.”

Currently, due to a surge in demand for their repair services, Brass has placed a temporary hold on accepting new repair requests, indicating the high regard in which their workmanship is held. As Brass continues to grow its international presence and foster its ambitious plans, Clinch is well positioned as a significant player in the high-quality workwear boot market for the foreseeable future.

Source: Noah Wire Services