Bukhara: Zarina Isomoa and her mother Zaynab Murodova continue the 3,000-year-old tradition of Uzbek Suzani embroidery in a former cinema workshop, fostering community and preserving cultural heritage through intricate textile art passed down through generations.

In a former cinema-turned-workshop located in Bukhara, Uzbekistan, Zarina Isomoa and her mother, Zaynab Murodova, continue the age-old tradition of Uzbek embroidery known as Suzani, which boasts a history of over 3,000 years. This vaulted room, with its cool interior perfectly suited for the sweltering summers, has been the site of their textile work since Uzbekistan gained independence in 1991. Before its current use, the space served as a mosque within a madrasa where young men learned various disciplines, including geometry and algebra.

Today, the walls of the former mosque resonate with the colours and patterns of Isomoa and Murodova’s creations, which include blankets, cushion covers, and garments, all rich with cultural significance. In traditional Uzbek culture, these embroidered items are often integral to a woman’s dowry. This reflects a broader state initiative to support and preserve these traditional crafts, alongside skills like metalworking and wood carving.

Zarina Isomoa, a third-generation embroiderer, engages with visitors from around the globe, providing insights into the Suzani techniques with clarity and passion. Dressed in a light-blue headscarf and denim jacket, she recounts the nuances of embroidery, including the types of fabric and dye materials. “It is crucial to pass down this tradition from one generation to the next,” Isomoa said, highlighting her role in teaching her four-year-old daughter the art of sewing. Her lineage can be traced back to artisans who crafted garments for the last king of Bukhara, Emir Alim Khan. Within the community, distinct gender roles persist, with men typically responsible for dye-making while women focus on sewing with silk and cotton.

The term ‘Suzani’ itself is derived from the Tajik and Persian languages, meaning ‘needle’. Isomoa describes the three primary types of fabric they use: 100% silk, a 50/50 silk-cotton blend known as adras, and 100% cotton sourced from the fertile Fergana Valley, a region close to Tashkent.

The practice of Suzani embroidery serves as a rite of passage for women. A girl’s first embroidered piece is made in her natal home and is often taken to her marital home upon marriage. The process is not merely creative but imbued with intention; women stitch wishes for the future into their work, employing a vibrant colour palette that includes blue for the blue sky above, and raspberry hues derived from local plants to symbolise various aspirations and protections against negativity. Isomoa articulates the ethereal connection between the artistic process and the well-being of the embroiderers, noting that “the making of these pieces brings calm and happiness.”

The production of colourful threads is achieved through natural dyeing methods, utilising materials such as walnut shells and plants like pomegranate and turmeric, with some dyes traded from neighbouring countries. The intricate designs depicted in the fabrics echo the motifs found in local architecture but deliberately avoid figurative imagery, emphasising decorative patterns instead.

The flourishing workshop, which has expanded to include thirty skilled artisans, nurtures a sense of community among women engaged in the trade, cultivating a space where creativity and tradition coalesce. Isomoa reflects on the centrality of their craft, stating that each piece holds emotional significance within the household, contributing to shared traditions and collective identity.

In essence, the practice of Suzani embroidery is intertwined not only with the personal histories of the women who create it but also with the cultural tapestry of Uzbekistan itself, showcasing a rich heritage that spans centuries. The work continues, following the thread of tradition and reinforcing the bonds that link past generations to the present.

Source: Noah Wire Services