Designer Yasuko Furuta showcased her latest collection at the Royal Academy of Arts, merging traditional tailoring with contemporary fashion norms and challenging gender binaries.
Toga’s designer Yasuko Furuta showcased her latest collection on a significant runway at the Royal Academy of Arts in London recently, marking her anticipated return to the city’s fashion scene after several years of remote presentations due to the pandemic. Having grown up in southern Japan and maintaining her business headquarters in Tokyo, Furuta has consistently demonstrated a strong connection to British fashion. She fondly recalls her experiences visiting London during her studies in Paris, where the unique DIY spirit of the city’s fashion culture particularly resonated with her. “It felt very exciting,” she expressed after her show. “But I also loved the traditional tailoring here too. It’s a place where the old meets the new.”
This show served as an exploration of contemporary fashion norms, particularly questioning the relevance of formalwear codes in today’s context. Given the backdrop of Savile Row, recognized as a hub of British tailoring, the presentation in a stark white space prompted reflections on evolving styles. Furuta’s approach is characterized by her challenge against the traditional gender binary in fashion, which was evident in various pieces that pushed the boundaries of conventional formal attire.
The collection kicked off with looks featuring undone bow ties draped casually around the neck, inspired by the personal style of photographer William Eggleston. Furuta viewed this particular aesthetic as a “rebellion against formal dress—one which differs from dressing casually, or wearing a T-shirt with a statement.” Additionally, traditional elements such as gray jackets were adapted with inbuilt belts, and oversized collars adorned classic office shirts, merging innovative design with familiar silhouettes.
Some standout pieces included twisted blazers that redefined traditional shapes, showcasing necklines that formed elegant, fluid lines across the wearer’s chest. Towards the end of the show, Furuta introduced a playful take on tuxedo attire, transforming stark black and white into unique eveningwear featuring sheer skirts reminiscent of shaggy white flowers and a draped tunic dress displayed by a male model, revealing whimsical floral patterns with movement.
The quality of craftsmanship in the collection stood out, particularly when juxtaposed against the more experimental styles currently trending at London Fashion Week. Furuta’s humor was evident throughout the presentation, exemplified by quirky items such as punk-inspired cigarette lighter necklaces and playful footwear combinations, including the pairing of tailored outfits with Asics dad trainers. Among the collection, the heels made from knotted leather stood out as desirable pieces.
As observers immersed themselves in Furuta’s imaginative vision, her unique blend of humor, craft, and style continued to captivate her loyal customer base, solidifying her status as a noteworthy figure in contemporary fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services
